Curii is an exciting new project focused on indigenous varieties and traditional vineyards in Alicante’s Marina Alta region. Partners Violeta Gutiérrez de la Vega and Alberto Redrado share a deep knowledge of the wines of this part of Spain. Violeta is gradually taking over the winery set up by her father Felipe Gutiérrez de la Vega (the producer behind Casta Diva Moscatel sweet wines plus a set of very personal Fondillón and dry wines) whereas Alberto manages the wine side at L’Escaleta, the family’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant in the town of Cocentaina.
Curii is named after an ancient Roman farm called Fondus Curius, which could be translated as "Curio's farmhouse". Violeta and Alberto work 3.5 hectares on the slopes of Bernia mountains plus a small vineyard in the coastal village of Teulada-Moraira, planted with the obscure white variety Trepadell. One of Alicante’s main assets is that grapes can be grown both at sea level and at elevation of 600 meters.
The main focus of their work in this area of remarkable altitude is Giró, a variety that was identified by Imidra (Madrid’s agricultural research centre) in 2011. Before that date, it had locally been thought to be a synonym for Garnacha. In fact, both varieties coexist in the Marina vineyards and are quite similar to the eye. According to Violeta and Alberto, Giró ripens later than Garnacha, it has darker lobed leaves, more acidity, less sweetness and is better adapted to the area and its climate. It also displays distinctive meaty notes in the wines. The ripe character of Curii wines is offset with whole bunch fermentation.
Since 2017, Violeta and Alberto have a small winery of their own in Xaló. Production stands at around 10,000 bottles but they expect to reach 30,000 bottles in the future and eventually work exclusively with their own vineyards. None of their wines carry the DO Alicante seal.
There are three single-vineyard wines made in tiny quantities: the white Trepadell (450 bottles, €18), which comes from a coastal vineyard planted on limestone soils, and two reds with peculiar names —Dra. Jekyll (€30, 600 bottles) and Sr. (the Spanish for Mr.) Hyde (€45, 300 bottles). Grapes for Mr Hayde are sourced from the only vineyard owned by the couple and which they claim it is the oldest Giró plot in area. It is packed with energy and lively Mediterranean herb aromas. Loam is dominant in the less reddish soils of Dra. Jekyll’s plot. Tannins are powerful, but the wine has less acidity and alcohol.
More accessible are their entry-level red Una Noche y un Día (a night and a day, €11.5, 7,000 bottles), made with purchased grapes, and the flagship Curii (€20, 2,500 bottles), a blend of Giró and Garnacha sourced from vineyards looked after by Violeta and Alberto.