A flagship producer in Montilla-Moriles (Córdoba, Andalusia), Pérez Barquero was established in 1905 but its modern incarnation dates from 1985 when the Córdoba, Ruz and Gracia families purchased this venerable house.
The public face of the winery since the acquisition is Rafael Córdoba, who acts as CEO, president and major shareholder. Under his leadership, the wines of Gran Barquero have gained a strong reputation and limited bottlings of ancient Soleras dating back to the foundational period have been released.
Pérez Barquero is the leading brand behind a group of wineries that includes Gracia Hermanos, Tomás García and Compañía Vinícola del Sur. The group owns 140 hectares of vineyards in Sierra de Montilla and Moriles Alto, the two major quality areas of Montilla-Moriles, plus 70 hectares in the villages of Santaella and Aguilar de la Frontera, also in Córdoba. Top vineyards are found on elevated areas on white, chalky soils similar to the albarizas from Sherry Country which add distinctive minerality and saline notes to the wines. Grapes for Pérez Barquero’s most distinctive wines are sourced from their own vineyards; less than a third of their needs are purchased from other growers.
Although PX (sweet wines made from Pedro Ximénez grapes) is the speciality of the region, Montilla-Moriles produces the same styles as Sherry Country. Gran Barquero, the winery’s flagship range of wines, includes Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso, PX and an outstanding Palo Cortado, which has been added recently. All of them are inexpensive, real benchmarks within their different styles. Retail prices range from €10 in the case of the eight- to 10-year-old Fino to €19 for the 25-year-old Amontillado, Oloroso and the six-year old PX. The Palo Cortado is aged for 25 years and costs around €32. There is also a Gran Barquero Fino En Rama (€15).
Created in 1975, the Gran Barquero brand is not particularly old, although the logo of a boatman carrying three casks (one for each of the founding brothers) dates from the 1950s. It is meant to evoke the times when the Guadalquivir river was navigable all the way to Córdoba.
Other sweet wines include a young vintage PX and the top La Cañada (€43). Aged for 25 years, the label reinforces its old style. Fresquito (€8.5) is a recent addition to the portfolio that recovers the region’s traditional wines shortly aged under flor (eight months) in clay vessels.
Old wines are scarce and difficult to find. The years on the label do not refer to vintage dates or the year when the Soleras were established, but to key moments in the history of the winery. The oldest wines, dating back from the foundation of the house, are released as 1905 Solera Fundacional. The range includes an Amontillado, an Oloroso and a PX. Only two “sacas” of 1,000 bottles each have been released so far, in 2002 and 2016, the second one labelled as “Serie B”.
The 1955 Solera Cincuentenario, to which a Palo Cortado has been added, is saddled between the Solera Fundacional and the Gran Barquero with releases limited to 250 bottles. With amazing depth and persistence, these jewels compete in equal terms with the best old Sherry.
As is the case in many Andalusian wineries, Pérez Barquero also makes brandy, vermouth and vinegar under the seal of DO Montilla-Moriles, as well as red wines which are sold as VT Córdoba. Global production reaches 3m litres per year, 45% of which is sold abroad. Pérez Barquero currently exports to 50 different countries.
