Located near the banks of the river Duero in Rueda, Bodegas Menade was set up in 2005 by the Sanz siblings, sixth generation of winegrowers and producers.
Marco (viticulture), Richard (winemaking) and Alejandra (marketing and communication) are the three pillars of this environmentally aware winery focused on organic Verdejo. “We are not going to save the world, but we take care of it”, says Richard.
With vineyards located at over 700 m above sea level, they aim to strike balance with the pruning and maintaining a green cover. They have replaced copper and sulfur with biodynamic infusions and they are carrying out test pits to identify deficiencies in the soil and introduce plants to help oxygenate it and act as natural compost. The Sanz brothers are great advocates of biological pest control against trunk diseases. After pruning, they sanitize soils and vines with ozone and treat them with trichoderma, a fast replicating fungus which prevents posible attacks. Ozone is also used during the growing cycle as a natural disinfectant against fungi and bacteria.
They also pioneered the introduction of “mobile trees” which are transported around the 195-hectare estate on small trailers to attract insects and birds living in the vineyards and they have planted a pollination garden or “insect hotel” which improves the area’s biodiversity.
The winery follows a similar philosophy. It is tastefully decorated with recycled materials and a chalk-painted mural (Richard calls it their “low consumption power point”) explaining the different stages in the production of their wines. Native yeasts and natural vinifications are the norm, with a wide array of vessels used in the winemaking process: 500-litre used barrels, foudres and 5,000-litre oak vats. Diam stoppers, wax seals and lighter bottles are favoured. The Sanz brothers have also refurbished their family’s underground cellar built in the 19th century in La Seca to store bottles and age wines in barrels and clay jars.
Menade produces a million bottles of low-intervention wines. The central range consists of four wines, their labels featuring different animals found in the estate. A fresh white sourced from 20- to 25-year-old vines, Menade Verdejo (700,000 bottles, €8.9) is represented by a hare. Menade Sauvignon Blanc (€9) features a greyhound whereas Menade Dulce (€9, 50cl), a sweet Sauvignon Blanc harvested later to concentrate sugars, shows a hedgehog on the label. Finally, Nosso (22,000 bottles, €11.50) is represented by a snail. It is a natural wine (no-sulphites are added) aged with its lees for four to five months so it is unctuous but maintains its acidity.
All the whites are labelled as VT Castilla y León. The new red Clandestino (€7) has been released without any geographic designation. Following a natural approach, it is made with Tinta de Toro from hundred-old vines located in the villages of Morales de Toro and La Bóveda de Toro.
The premium range starts with La Misión (€22.50), formerly called V3. It is sourced from Verdejo old vines planted on sandy soils. Cuttings from this site have been used in new plantings. According to Richard, these 'Verdeja' grapes as he calls them are “smaller, with oval-shaped bunches and have a thicker skin making them more resistant to diseases like botrytis”. The wine is aged part in vats, part in 500-litre barrels and part in amphorae for 10 months.
Two new sulfite-free whites explore the traditional practices of yesteryear. Sobrenatural (€48.75) spends 30 months in oak vats and seasoned barrels and Adorado (€60) is a tribute to the wines that started their life under flor and underwent further oxidative aging, in the style of the Sherry system of soleras and criaderas. 2018 marks the first “saca” to restart a solera dating back from 1967.
Visitors are welcome at Menade’s store and wine bar (opening hours: 12:30 to 18:00 from Thu to Mo; Sun 12:00 to 15:00). Winery tours feature different itineraries: the historic cellar, the modern winery, both tours and the premium visit La Custodia with the chance to taste the full range of wines and pair them with tapas made with local ingredients.
